La Scala Introduces strict dress code – what about Poland?
Global media have recently reported on new audience guidelines introduced by Milan’s renowned opera house, La Scala, which now require attendees to dress appropriately for the venue’s formal atmosphere. While La Scala has long had an operatic dress code, enforcement had relaxed over the past decade, allowing casually dressed tourists – even those in sporty outfits – to sit in the auditorium. The theater is now tightening its standards. Those not dressed suitably may be turned away at the door, without the possibility of a refund. What about Poland? Do Polish audiences still cherish the elegance once associated with a night at the opera?
Times are changing rapidly, and with them, attitudes toward widely accepted social norms – including those within cultural institutions. Just half a century ago, my grandparents wouldn’t dream of going to the theater without dressing in their finest. My grandfather would wear a crisp, white shirt, a suit, and either a bow tie or necktie, while my grandmother would don a long gown – often with a train or a backless design. She’d drape a shawl or stole over her shoulders, carry a small gold-threaded embroidered handbag, and wear either golden sandals or patent leather shoes. All this despite the hardships of Communist Poland (PRL); their refined, detail-conscious sense of elegance likely stemmed from pre-war traditions.
Unfortunately, World War II and the poverty that followed turned Polish fashion on its head. Survival, not style, became the priority – and comfort was heavily promoted by the Polish People’s Republic’s propaganda for decades to come. Once a staple of middle-class attire during the interwar years, hats disappeared from the heads of both men and women on Polish streets. Few could afford a tailored suit or a taffeta gown. Today, while living conditions and consumer access in Poland have seen substantial improvement, formal eveningwear remains a rarity – even an oddity – in Polish opera houses. Although a few thoughtful audience members still treat dressing up as self-evident, they are clearly in the minority. As such, they tend to stand out all the more – not just at premieres, but also during regular performances. And vice versa.
I am aware that when I attend the opera in a long evening gown and patent heels, pairing them with a matching shawl, jewelry, and makeup, I stand out from the crowd. But that’s a deliberate choice. For me, every opera visit is a celebration – a special occasion to honor the encounter with high art and the people who create and perform it on stage and in the orchestra pit. Dressing up is a sign of respect: for the artists, for the venue, and for oneself. After all, as the old saying goes, “Clothes make the man.” Other audience members often remark on my attire. I also hear comments from women who would like to dress up for the opera but feel hesitant. I always encourage them: go ahead, wear that special gown to the premiere – break out the tulle, sequins, even feathers! People go all out for weddings, baptisms, first communions, and even funerals – not to mention church on Sundays. So why not have some fun dressing for the theater too?
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This perspective is echoed by Sandra Plajzer, an influencer known for her vibrant, extravagant style, fashion enthusiast, and author of the book “Dress With Me.” In a short Instagram video on opera dress codes, she explains: “You wouldn’t wear a tracksuit to a wedding or a bikini to a funeral. (…) Dressing up lends significance to an event. Let’s celebrate the moment – including through our clothes.” Although her video sparked comments arguing that what we wear to the theater isn’t as important as understanding or emotionally engaging with the performance, surely the two aren’t mutually exclusive.
You might wonder whether Polish opera houses enforce any dress code – and the answer is yes, they do. Some institutions, such as the Warsaw Chamber Opera, even include a note on invitations stating “evening wear is required / encouraged.” Even so, it is not a condition for being allowed in. Theater staff won’t demand that attendees wear heels and dresses or suits and ties under threat of being turned away. That’s why Polish opera houses and concert halls regularly showcase the full spectrum of personal wardrobes. In the Kraków Opera, it is not uncommon to see men in plaid shirts – associated with manual labor – and worn-out jeans. During summer, white T-shirts dominate, and I have often noticed older men in shorts and flip-flops among the audience. At a premiere in the Lublin Opera, one gentleman even showed up in a tracksuit – and to make matters worse, he was a well-known director. Sneakers and other types of athletic footwear plague the Polish National Opera in Warsaw, although, compared to other Polish cities, the capital performs comparatively well in this aspect. Statistically – and this may not come as a surprise – it is women who tend to dress more elegantly for the theater. They are more likely to wear dresses – if not strictly evening gowns, then at least cocktail dresses, accessorized appropriately.
Etiquette coach and author of several books, Aleksandra Pakuła, has dedicated an entire YouTube video to opera etiquette. In “Opera Etiquette: How to Behave Before, During, and After the Performance,” she notes that while the National Opera does not enforce a specific dress code, its audience generally adheres to formal standards. She recommends business attire and takes a fairly strict stance, even specifying suit color for men (navy blue) and appropriate dress length for women (around knee-length). She also stresses that premieres are an exception – there, “black tie” is expected: tuxedos for men and long evening gowns for women.
So how can one navigate this fashion dilemma when heading to a performance? After over 30 years of experience as an opera-goer, I have made it something of a mission to persuade as many people as possible to attend at least one performance in their lives. Interestingly, the most common excuse I hear from those who have not yet been to the opera is not that the music is too difficult for them. Neither money nor language is usually the issue—though I have been asked a few times how to follow an opera in a foreign language, and I reassure them that subtitles are provided, similar to movie theaters. Most often, the thing that keeps potential audience members away is this: they do not know what to wear.
The answer is simple. Not everyone feels comfortable in sequins, feathers, tulle, gowns with trains, pearls, or tuxedos – and that’s perfectly okay. Men just need to wear a blazer and trousers (not jeans), while women, if they do not own a dress, can opt for a white blouse and a solid-colored skirt or trousers, paired with shoes that are not beachwear or sneakers. Most importantly, clothing should be clean, tidy, and not look like it came straight from the garden or the gym. That’s truly a small effort to make for a visit to such an exceptional and rarefied place as the opera.